A resurfacing serum, not a moisturizer. Neova's own one-line description of it is "exfoliate with hydroxy acids, accelerate cellular renewal with retinol, and safeguard with antioxidants", and its own subtitle calls it a daily serum with alpha-beta-retinol.

What is Neova Cell Renewal?

Three exfoliating acids and a retinoid in one bottle. Glycolic acid is the second ingredient of thirty four, which is high, and it is the first thing to know before deciding whether this belongs in your routine. Neova's own account of what each active does:

• Glycolic acid, second. The simplest molecular size alpha hydroxy acid, derived from sugar cane, that speeds cell turnover and dissolves the bonds holding dead skin cells together.
• Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, thirteenth. A retinoic acid that penetrates the deeper layers of the skin without irritating it.
• Lactic acid, fifteenth. A mild AHA that gently exfoliates and softens.
• Salicylic acid, seventeenth. A deeply-penetrating BHA that dissolves pore-clogging debris and oil.

The instructions that come with it

Patch test before you start. Neova's words: "patch test before first use." Wear sunscreen for as long as you use it. Neova's direction is to "always protect new skin cells with broad-spectrum sunscreen during daylight hours", and it repeats the instruction a second time on its own page. The brand's FAQ is blunt about why: "increased cell turnover can make skin more sensitive to UV exposure, so daily use of a broad-spectrum SPF is essential to protect results and prevent damage."

Already using a retinol?

Neova's answer is to use caution. In the brand's words, "Retinol (a retinoid) already increases cell turnover, so combining multiple renewal actives may increase irritation. Alternating usage is often recommended." There is a retinoid in this bottle already, so a separate retinol on the same night is two.

Cell Renewal specifications

Texture, dose, frequency, skin types, the patch test and the sunscreen instruction are Neova's own wording. Product type and every ingredient position are read from the ingredient list.

Where it fits in a routine

On clean skin, before your moisturizer, and Neova says a hydrating step afterwards is the usual way to use a renewal treatment. If your skin is not ready for acids, Power Defense is the antioxidant serum in the range and carries no exfoliant at all. The rest of the line is on our Neova skincare page.