An occlusive lip ointment rather than a balm or a gloss, and a ten-ingredient formula. Petrolatum is first on the list and Neova's Copper Peptide Complex is sixth. Neova's own description of the texture: "rich, occlusive ointment for lip protection."

What Neova says it is for

Its own opening line reads: "occlusive base rich with Copper Peptide Complex seals moisture in and effects of sun, cold and wind exposure out." The brand's benefit list names a moisture seal, barrier protection against environmental stressors, and soothing relief for dry, irritated lips.

Neova writes it for all lips, and points in particular at lips after in-office procedures and after sun, wind and cold exposure.

What the formula actually is

This is an occlusive, and that is the whole design. Petrolatum, microcrystalline wax and paraffin are the first, third and fourth ingredients, and between them they form the seal. Glycerin is fifth, which is the humectant Neova credits with drawing in and retaining moisture. Copper peptide sits sixth, listed as Bis (Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate.

Our reading of it: the copper peptide is what separates this from a pharmacy ointment, and the petrolatum base is what does the sealing. If you want a lip product that sinks in and disappears, this is the wrong format. If your lips crack every winter and nothing stays put, an occlusive is the format that works, and this is a professional-range one.

What is not in it: no fragrance, no parabens, no plant oils, no beeswax and no lanolin, all read from the list. The preservative is benzyl alcohol.

Cu3 Lip Repair specifications

Texture, timing and the benefit lines are Neova's own. The ingredient count, the positions and every free-from line are read from the ingredient list.

Where it fits in a routine

Any time of day, over bare lips or under colour. It is the one Neova product with no place in the face routine, so it sits alongside the rest rather than inside it. The copper peptide moisturizer for the face is Creme de la Copper, and the full line is on our Neova skincare page.